Glamour, Sensuality and Challenge – Gucci’s Fall-Winter 2012-2013 Collection

Frida Giannini opened this year’s edition of the Milan Fashion Week with a fall-winter collection characterized by a seductive romanticism. After the geometric lines of her Art Deco summer dresses, the Creative Director of the renowned Italian fashion house now bets on “dramatic sensuality, a dark glamour” and on “subtle games of provocative intellect”, as she herself puts it. The color palette of the collection combines black, olive green, plum and indigo in a multitude of textures.

Soft velvet, tapestry motifs and printed orchids characterize the new collection of the brand. However, this does not mean that the typical winter materials are forgotten. Fur, especially goatling, shearling and mink, leather and brocades are skillfully combined with silk, velvet and chiffon. Black feathers with green iridescences complete the variety of textures displayed this year on the catwalk by Gucci.

The past represents an endless source of inspiration for Frida Giannini. With her, the 70s are never far away. This season the black chiffon peasant blouse is reinterpreted. The spirit of the 19th century English dandies pervades through the masculine silhouettes of Gucci’s black angels whose waistline is marked by a silk belt. The peplum line, present with other collections on the catwalks of New York and London, is not forgotten by the Italian designer who introduces it on a damask framed jacket.

Contrasting elements of style contribute to the provocative glamour of Frida Giannini’s creations. Trousers of a marked equestrian influence enter very refined high-heeled riding boots. Shocking combinations of light and dark tones within floral patterned dresses exacerbate the evening gowns’ very feminine line.

The straight dresses are so tight that they hamper the silhouette with a lot of sensuality. They are discretely adorned with floral velvet inserts or with asymmetric buttons. The latter ones provide the outfit with a military look. The more comfortable alternative to the up-tight elegant dresses comes in form of pajamas velvet pants and mesh tops, covered by oversized jackets.

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